# FAQ — Roofing — Renovate Guide **Author:** Frank Mercer, Licensed GC (Ret.) | HAAG Certified Roof Inspector **Q: How much does it cost to replace a roof in 2024?** **A:** For a standard 2,000 sq ft home, expect to pay $8,000–$14,000 for architectural asphalt shingles installed. Metal roofing runs $18,000–$35,000 for the same house. Those ranges assume typical pitch, accessible roof, and no decking replacement. Add $2–$4 per sq ft if we find rotted OSB or plywood underneath. Any contractor quoting you $4,000 for a full replacement is cutting corners on underlayment, flashing, or labor — walk away. --- **Q: How long does a 30-year shingle actually last?** **A:** In most climates, 15–20 years with average maintenance. The "30-year" designation is a marketing classification, not a lifespan guarantee. Owens Corning Duration and GAF Timberline HDZ are rated Class 4 impact-resistant and realistically last 22–27 years in moderate climates. In Florida, Texas, or Colorado's hail corridor, you're closer to 15–18 years. Proper attic ventilation is the single biggest factor — an under-ventilated attic cooking at 150°F destroys shingle adhesive strips and cuts years off any warranty. --- **Q: What are signs I need a new roof vs. a repair?** **A:** If more than 30% of the shingles show granule loss, cracking, or cupping, replace the whole roof — repairs just delay the inevitable. Specific replacement indicators: multiple layers already on the roof, sagging deck, widespread flashing failure, or shingles older than 20 years. Single-area damage from a fallen branch, one missing shingle, or isolated flashing leak around a chimney or pipe boot? That's a repair job. Don't let anyone sell you a replacement when a $400–$800 repair fixes it. --- **Q: What is ice and water shield and do I really need it?** **A:** Ice and water shield is a self-adhering rubberized asphalt membrane that seals around nails and prevents water infiltration from ice dams and wind-driven rain. You absolutely need it. IRC code requires a minimum 24 inches inside the exterior wall line — that typically means 2 courses along eaves in most climates. In Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, and similar zones, I run it 6 feet up from the eave and in every valley. Grace Ice & Water Shield and Henry Blueskin are the two products I spec most often. Skipping it to save $200 in material is how you end up with a $15,000 interior water damage claim. --- **Q: How much does it cost to repair a roof leak?** **A:** Most residential roof repairs fall between $350 and $1,500. A pipe boot replacement runs $150–$300. Re-flashing a chimney is $500–$1,500 depending on whether it needs step flashing, counter flashing, or a full cricket. A simple shingle patch over 10–20 sq ft is $300–$600. If a contractor charges less than $250 for any leak repair, they're not pulling the shingles back far enough to do it right. Get the repair in writing with a 2-year workmanship warranty minimum. --- **Q: Is metal roofing worth the extra cost?** **A:** Yes, if you're staying in the house more than 15 years. Standing seam metal roofing lasts 40–70 years, handles 140 mph winds, and sheds snow and ice without ice dam issues. The premium over architectural shingles is roughly $10,000–$20,000 on an average house. Over a 50-year period, you replace asphalt shingles 2–3 times versus zero for metal. Insurance discounts of 20–35% are common in hail and hurricane zones. The one caveat: exposed-fastener metal panels like corrugated steel are cheaper but require fastener maintenance every 10–15 years. --- **Q: What does a HAAG certified roof inspection look for?** **A:** A HAAG inspection is the industry standard for storm damage assessment — the same methodology insurance adjusters and engineering firms use. I'm evaluating shingle granule loss patterns, fracture lines that indicate hail impact versus normal weathering, dent patterns on soft metals like ridge vents and gutters that confirm hail size, and wind damage that lifts seals versus pre-existing installation defects. A HAAG-certified inspector can distinguish a 1-inch hail impact from a 1.5-inch impact based on spatter patterns — that size difference is the threshold for functional damage on most shingle products. If your adjuster denies your claim, a HAAG report carries legal and appraisal weight. --- **Q: How do I know if my roof has hail damage?** **A:** Check your gutters and downspouts first — dents on aluminum gutters from hail are your easiest confirmation. On the roof, look for bruising: depressions in the shingle where granules have been knocked away, leaving black asphalt exposed. Random, non-patterned granule loss is hail. Granule loss along edges and ridges is weathering. Check AC condenser fins and metal flashing for dents. If hail was 1 inch or larger — roughly quarter-sized — there's likely functional damage to your shingles even if it isn't obvious from the ground. Document everything with photos before contacting your insurance carrier. --- **Q: What type of roofing material lasts the longest?** **A:** Copper and slate top the list at 75–150 years with proper maintenance, but they're $50,000+ on an average home. For most homeowners, standing seam steel or aluminum runs 40–70 years. Class 4 impact-resistant architectural shingles like Malarkey Legacy or Owens Corning Duration Storm are the best value — 25–35 years realistic lifespan with a significant cost advantage over metal. Concrete tile lasts 40–50 years but adds 8–12 lbs per sq ft of dead load, which most residential structures need an engineer to verify before install. --- **Q: Can I put new shingles over old shingles?** **A:** Once, yes. Most building codes allow a maximum of two shingle layers. A re-roof over one existing layer saves $1,000–$2,000 on tear-off and disposal. But I rarely recommend it. You can't inspect or replace the decking, the added weight stresses rafters, and the irregular surface underneath shortens the new shingle's life. Heat retention increases, which accelerates the new shingles' aging. If the existing layer is cupped, curled, or has ridges, the new shingles telegraph those defects immediately. On a house I'm doing quality work on, we strip to the deck every time. --- **Q: How long does it take to replace a roof?** **A:** A standard 2,000–2,500 sq ft single-story home with straightforward pitch takes one full crew day — 6 to 8 hours. Two-story homes, steep pitches over 8:12, or complex hip-and-valley layouts run 1.5 to 2 days. Add a day if we're replacing decking. Weather is the only wildcard — we need dry conditions during the window when the deck is exposed. I do not let crews leave a stripped deck overnight without at least one layer of synthetic underlayment nailed down. Any contractor who does is gambling with your house. --- **Q: What is the best roofing underlayment?** **A:** Synthetic underlayment over felt paper every time. 15 lb felt tears in wind, absorbs moisture, and wrinkles under shingles. Quality synthetic underlayments — Titanium UDL-25, GAF FeltBuster, or Owens Corning WeatherLock — are 4x stronger, slip-resistant for crew safety, and UV-stable for 6 months if the install stalls. Felt 30 lb is still acceptable under tile and metal in some applications but I've moved away from it entirely on asphalt shingle jobs. Material cost difference is about $80–$150 on a full house — not worth skimping. --- **Q: How much does roof flashing repair cost?** **A:** Step flashing along a dormer wall: $300–$600. Counter flashing on a chimney: $400–$900. Full chimney re-flash with a new cricket built in: $800–$2,000. Pipe boot replacement: $150–$300. Valley flashing replacement in one valley: $250–$500. These are repair prices. The reason flashing fails most often is contractors using aluminum flashing against masonry — it corrodes at the contact point. I spec copper or lead-coated copper for any flashing touching brick or stucco. It costs more upfront and lasts 40+ years without re-flashing. --- **Q: What pitch roof can you walk on safely?** **A:** Up to a 6:12 pitch, an experienced roofer walks without fall protection on dry conditions — though OSHA requires fall protection at any pitch over 4:12 on residential work. At 7:12 and steeper, we're using roof brackets and planks. At 9:12 and above, most of the work is done from a ladder or staging. As a homeowner, don't walk on anything over 4:12 without a safety harness. On any pitch, wet shingles and synthetic underlayment are extremely slippery. Don't go up there after rain, dew, or frost. --- **Q: How do I find a roof leak from inside my attic?** **A:** Go up on a bright day and kill the attic light. Water stains on decking show as dark rings but rarely indicate where the leak enters — water travels. Bring a flashlight and trace the stain uphill toward the ridge. Look for daylight coming through the deck, black staining indicating mold growth at a consistent wet spot, or shiners — nails that have frost or rust on them, indicating they're missing the rafter and acting as condensation points. The actual leak entry is usually 2–6 feet above where the stain appears on your ceiling below. Mark it with chalk from inside, then measure out to locate it on the exterior. --- **Q: What questions should I ask a roofing contractor before hiring?** **A:** Seven non-negotiables: Are you licensed in this state? Do you carry general liability and workers' comp — get the certificates, don't just take their word? Who is the manufacturer of the shingles and what warranty class? What underlayment are you using? Will you replace all pipe boots and exposed flashing or just shingle over them? Do you pull a permit? What's your workmanship warranty and do you have it in writing? Any contractor who hesitates on permits, skips new flashing, or can't produce insurance certificates same-day is a liability. Storm chasers — out-of-state crews that follow hail events — fail on most of these every time. --- **Q: What is the difference between architectural and 3-tab shingles?** **A:** 3-tab shingles are a single flat layer, roughly 2.5 lbs per sq ft, with a basic wind rating of 60–70 mph. They're still available but I don't spec them anymore. Architectural (laminated) shingles are two layers bonded together, creating dimensional texture, with wind ratings of 110–130 mph and better granule adhesion. The cost difference is $15–$30 per square installed — negligible for the performance gain. Premium architectural products like GAF Timberline HDZ and Owens Corning Duration carry class 4 impact ratings and stronger manufacturer warranties. Nobody should be putting 3-tab on a new roof in 2024. --- **Q: How do I know if my roof deck needs to be replaced?** **A:** Walk the attic and push up on the decking — soft spots mean rot or delamination. From the roof surface, look for spongy areas underfoot or visible waves and dips that weren't there before. On tear-off, I reject any OSB or plywood that shows face delamination, soft spots when pressed with a boot, or black staining that penetrates the wood fiber. Discolored but solid wood gets dried and stays. The standard is 7/16" OSB or 1/2" CDX plywood minimum for asphalt shingles on rafters spaced 24" on center. Decking replacement runs $2–$5 per sq ft installed — budget for at least 10–15% of the deck on any roof over 15 years old. --- **Q: Does homeowners insurance cover roof replacement?** **A:** It covers sudden, accidental damage —